Exploration

Stats

Start: Vermilion Valley Resort – Mile 878.7
End: Vermilion Valley Resort – Mile 878.7
Elevation Max: 7,692
Elevation Min: 7,692
Elevation Change: 0 up & 0 down
Average Heart Rate: n/a
Walking Time: 0 hrs 0 minutes
Date: 5/31/2022

The Walk

VVR Haiku

Tired and hungry
Hamilton and bonfires
The vortex is real

We didn’t plan to zero at VVR. We were going to get back on trail and catch up with the crew in Mammoth. But then today happened.

A bunch of friends and hikers were sitting around the campfire in the afternoon and we decided to stay. Plus it was our only night to hang with Dr. Pinky and Dr. Buckets. They gave Quest some PT advice and stretching homework.

We all had a fun night and I wish they were going northbound so we could see them again! But that’s often the way a thruhike goes. You learn to appreciate the moments you spend with people.

Stats

Start: Sallie Keyes Lake – Mile 864
End: Vermilion Valley Resort – Mile 878.7
Elevation Max: 10,846
Elevation Min: 7,665
Elevation Change: 2,842 up & 5,321 down
Average Heart Rate: 110
Walking Time: 7 hrs 21 minutes
Date: 5/30/2022

The Walk

I woke up early and ready to go. Grabbed half a liter of water out of Sallie Keys Lakes and headed out. We had 23 miles to VVR. And I am out of dinners. So we need to get there by 5!

Quest was on the same page so we started off quick. I was thankful that we kept pushing until dark last night. We knocked out 2.5k feet. That only left 500 feet to climb over Seldon pass. The climb went quick and the snow was hard.

The pass went over top of one mountain. Different than the monstrous passes between two sheer rock faces we were used to. I enjoyed the change of pace. The pass was filled with moving water, trees, big rocks, and great views.

We got to the top of the pass and looked out over frozen lakes. What a beautiful valley to cross! I relaxed for a bit then pushed on. We needed to get to VVR for dinner!

The day was filled with great views and lots of river crossings. The snow melt was in full effect. The river crossings and snow are a fun challenge. They mix up the day and you have to hop around / choose your own path. Often the actual path is covered and you have to find a way without stepping on plants. Because we try to Leave No Trace!!

11 miles from VVR we caught up to a few friends who were taking a lunch break. They planned to skip VVR and go straight to mammoth (32 miles). But they were struggling and didn’t have enough food. I gave them everything I had to spare, a pack of tuna and two bars. That was my backup dinner, so now I really needed to get there.

Quest and I cruised down 2k feet of elevation over 4 miles. This was the longest, steepest descent of the trip. I’m thankful it wasn’t snowy. It would have been nice to have my trekking poles, but they were pretty much broken from getting stuck in the snow.

We left the PCT and hiked 6 miles around a lake to VVR. “Bonus miles” suck. Miles you walk that don’t get you any closer to Canada. We were doing 12 in total for the VVR pit stop. But it sounds like a cool place and we need food.

The lakes sandy banks were exposed. This must be the lowest level in years. It’s sad to see the bank where water once was. And there were raging rivers flowing into the lake. The decline in water levels is years in the making. And 2022 is another low snow year for the area.

We walked around the lake and into VVR. Just in time for dinner! We feasted on a homemade meal of mashed potatoes, baked beans, salad, and a pulled pork sandwich. It was just what I needed. Plus we saw 10 other familiar hikers, and met a few new faces.

I met my first JMT southbound hikers and they quickly got trail names, Dr. Pinky and Dr. Buckets. They had just finished their Doctorate degrees in physical therapy and we’re hiking 211 miles on the JMT to celebrate. How cool!

Quest and I chatted with them and relaxed for the rest of the evening. Tomorrow we planned to hike out and with a short resupply to Mammoth. I slept in my tent and didn’t get a shower. But the hot food and resupply was all I really needed.

Stats

Start: Evolution Lake Overlook – Mile 844
End: Sallie Keyes Lake – Mile 864
Elevation Max: 10,896
Elevation Min: 7,722
Elevation Change: 3,497 up & 4,145 down
Average Heart Rate: 102
Walking Time: 7 hrs 12 minutes
Date: 5/29/2022

The Walk

I woke up in the amazing camping spot to frozen water. It was still flipping cold. I learned my watch has the last 4 hours of temperature and it said 23 degrees at 4am. What the hell. That’s freezing. Thank god for my 10 degree bag.

Quest and I stayed in the sleeping bags waiting for the sun to peak over the mountains. Hoping for another 10 degrees. But I couldn’t wait that long and eventually got up and packed. As soon as I finished the sun peaked over. Figures!

I took a last look at the lake and headed out. We were going to hit a side trail back over 12,000 feet and see a glacier, but it was too cold. We just wanted to start walking and warm up.

It was surreal walking down into the valley we looked over last night. We spent all morning walking through. It was filled with trees, countless streams, and animals. Lots of deer and squirrels running around.

A river flowed through the middle of the valley and we often walked across. Sometimes the trail would open up and we’d walk into a valley soaking in the semi-warm sun. The water was insane clear.

We took a break right by the river and laid down for an hour. It was a beautiful spot. As we kept walking the river got more powerful. More and more streams flowed into it from melting snow. And at times it raged through the valley. Whitewater and waterfalls smashing against smooth rocks.

We climbed out of the valley over a few bridges and into a canyon right next to the even more raging river! It was one of my fsvorite section of trail so far. We kept walking toward Seldon pass. We didn’t plan to get there today. So it was a pretty relaxing day.

We took a side trail to Blaney hot springs and had to cross a swift river. Luckily there was a rope to hold onto! It was the fastest river we’ve had to cross. Soaking felt great and we met a few Californians who were having a weekend trip.

We almost stayed by the hot springs, but we still had 3k feet to climb to Seldon Pass. We decided to start waking and knock out as much as we could before dark.

After two hours of climbing we stopped at Sallie Keys Lakes. Thank goodness it stays light until we’ll after 8! It was another cold night. I set up my tent and ate dinner as fast as possible. Tomorrow we were going over seldon pass and into VVR! A resupply and warm food were close.

Stats

Start: Middle Fork Kings River – Mile 830
End: Evolution Lake Overlook – Mile 844
Elevation Max: 11,963
Elevation Min: 8,556
Elevation Change: 4,158 up & 1,823 down
Average Heart Rate: 111
Walking Time: 5 hrs 7 minutes
Date: 5/28/2022

The Walk

Pat pat. I woke up to a light tapping on my sleeping bag. Instantly I knew it was rain and I held my breath hoping I wouldn’t feel many more a few more hit and I turned to look at the sky.

Uh oh. Dark clouds were forming and creeping over the mountain. But it was hard to tell. It was 6:00 and I didn’t feel like packing up and possibly walking in the rain. So I sprung up and quick pitched my tent. In a few minutes I was inside and the rain hadn’t picked up. At least I would stay dry.

10 minutes later Quest walked over fully packed up. He slept on a rock by the water and didn’t have a spot to pitch his tent. I asked Garmin for the weather, but it was taking a long time to connect. Quest headed out and said he would pitch if a storm came.

I decided to pack up and follow. By the time I got going it was 7 and Muir Pass was 9 miles away. Might as well get an early start. Passes in the morning are the best because the snow is hard and your legs don’t sink in too much.

The trail would through a forest with a rushing river on the left side, and mountains rising up on both sides. I love walking through small valleys. I caught up with Quest a mile in.

Then we headed out for the day. We crossed rivers, saw waterfalls and walked through the first. At 4.5 miles I stopped for a break next to a waterfall and beautiful Mountain View’s. It was chilly and the longer I sat the colder I got. About 15?l minutes after getting water and eating a snack I headed on.

We had 4.5 miles to the pass. And snow started to fall. The clouds looked the same. Pretty Misty and overcast. We decided to keep going until things looked really bad. The cool weather should keep the snow hard.

Half a mile later the trail turned to snow. We had 4 miles of snow on the approach to Muir Pass. Luckily I could follow footprints of hikers before me and I didn’t sink in too much.

But it was cold. We kept moving and climbing. We were walking through a cloud and climbing steep snow chutes. After many false peaks, the hut at the top of the pass came into view.

We went right into the hut which was a nice break from the wind. And had lunch. I was relieved. Even though we had a long snowy descent, the climb was over!

The way down is usually easier because you aren’t working as hard. But we postholed most of the way down. Where you sink into the snow. Sometimes up to your waist and often up to your knee.

The next 3 miles was a mix of sliding feet quickly to try and stay up and walking in other peoples footprints a foot down in the snow. I was chilly but made the miles. And kept cruising.

We got to evolution lake at 3:30. The sun was breaking up the clouds and shining down, it felt amazing. I was warm for mthe first time of the day! We hung out for an hour and decided to look for camp spots.

We narrowed it down to two spots and a guy told us to check out a side trail to a waterfall. The waterfall was really cool. But we saw a small mountain next to the waterfall and decide to climb up there.s there was an amazing camp spot! No way?

This was the most beautiful 360 view I’ve ever seen. A lake in front of us. Then a waterfall and canyon, then a huge forested river valley, all framed by huge mountains.

We had dinner with a view of the lake and saw Ramen walking below. We called out and they joined us at the camp spot. We chilled until sun set and climbed 15 minutes to a bigger mountain with an even better view.

It was absolutely stunning.

At dark we climbed down to camp then watched the stars pop come out on a night with a new moon. It was absolutely the most tranquil night of my life. And hands down one of the best camping spots in the Sierras.

Stats

Start: Tentsite on ridge – Mile 814
End: Middle Fork Kings River – Mile 830
Elevation Max: 12,100
Elevation Min: 8,222
Elevation Change: 2,322 up & 4,159 down
Average Heart Rate: 110
Walking Time: 5 hrs 3 minutes
Date: 5/27/2022

The Walk

The morning sun peaked over the mountain. I had been awake a few times before 7 to blow up my air mattress. I think it had a leak. The air isn’t holding too well.

Oh well. I’ll deal with that in town. For now it works good enough. And we have a lot of miles yet to go. Mather pass is today. The view was still as good this morning and I felt happy to be awake. And ready for another day.

We started around 8. Way later than normal, but I didn’t care in the Sierrras. I’m here to enjoy the experience. We had two miles to the top of Mather Pass. It’s known for steep and sketchy, slick climbs. And it didn’t disappoint.

On the way up we mountaineered up a bit of mountain and used shoe steps on a steep snowy side. On the way down I skidded with my microspikes, and took few clunky glissades. Trying not to go too fast and get out of control.

It was the steepest pass yet. Definitely felt the sketchiest. But overall okay. A lot of snow has melted in recent weeks. We had quite a bit on the approach.

The view into the next section was beautiful. We overlooked paradise lakes and disappointing peak (I wonder why it’s named that way, it’s a perfect place for an evil wizard)!

After getting down to the lakes, we passed two frozen ones and stopped for lunch overlooking both frozen lakes, it was chilly. But a spectacular view, we stayed for a bit then started walking through the valley.

The earth felt alive. Mountains rose up on both sides of us and raging water filled a third of the valley. We were just above, walking in the mountainside. As we walked the area grew wider and life came to be.

I saw lizards and deer, grasses and flowers, pine trees and massive trees! It was a beautiful section. We walked through and looked at peaks, rushing water, and forests all day.

After some exciting river crossings 3x log walks in a row we decided to call it around 16 miles. We found a great site overlooking the raging river and watched the sun set behind the peaks.

Then had dinner and relaxed. I set up camp a hundred yards up the hill to keep condensation down. We’ll see how it works.

Tomorrow is another big day. Muir pass and camping at evolution lakes.

Stats

Start: Woods Creek – Mile 802
End: Tentsite on ridge before Mather Pass – Mile 814
Elevation Max: 11,747
Elevation Min: 8,987
Elevation Change: 3,852 up & 2,427 down
Average Heart Rate: 126
Walking Time: 4 hrs 49 minutes
Date: 5/26/2022

The Walk

I relaxed this morning. I’m in the Sierras. My bag is heavy. And I don’t need to hurry. At least it’s a bit lighter after finishing the salami, cheese, and veggies.

I got moving pretty slowly. Today was a 3k climb up to Pinchot Pass. Then we’d enter a valley and make our way to Mather Pass. Not sure if we will do both today or not. We’ll see how the day goes.

The climb up to Pinchot Pass was beautiful. We climbed out of a forest and followed a raging river all morning. It was bursting from all the snow melt.

As I climbed the mountains became larger and more beautiful. It is hard to capture in words or a photo.

The trail up to Pinchot pass was tricky because it was often buried in snow. I followed footprints through the snow, then walked over patches of rocks and often two different sets of footprints came out of the rocks.

So you had multiple options to choose, and couldn’t see the trail! If I was using a gps it would be easy to follow. But Quest and I were still using the paper maps.

Everything was great for the most part. I’d bounce between finding the trail and following footsteps. But I got to a ridge and could see footprints or the trail. I knew I was close based on the map.

I climbed 50 feet back down the rocky hill and found the trail. It was a fun experience. After that the trail climbed switchbacks and didn’t have much more snow. It was tiring, but the views on top were worth every step.

From the top I could see the path I climbed and where I’d hiked all morning to get to the pass. Then the expansive mountains all around. On the other side I could see a long valley, framed by mountains. Mount Pinchot stood tallest of them all to my right.

Three frozen lakes were to my left and I could hear a faint rush of moving water. The mountains were warming up. Snow was melting fast.

I laid up top soaking in the views and snacking for 15 minutes. Then Quest came up. We chilled and chatted for s bit. Then decided to start the hike down into the valley. We’d grab lunch at a lake.

The descent was snowy but not too steep. There were rocks all around and the scariest part was possibly postholing your shin into a rock under the snow. But that never happened. We walked a mile by the frozen lakes. Then walked over a stream flowing through a meadow. We kept walking and got to the lake filled by that stream.

It looked a few feet deep and would have made a good swimming spot if we were staying. I had tuna and goldfish and enjoyed soaking in the rays. What a beautiful experience.

Then we kept hiking. Descending into the valley. As we did the rush of water became louder and louder. The trail was often covered in running water.

Each river crossing was a journey. We walked up and downstream until we found the easiest place to cross. We jumped from rock to rock, walked over logs, crawled over logs, walked right through without shoes, and once even tossed packs over and jumped. So many ways to cross a river.

As we approached Mather Pass another large flowing river crossing was on trail. We decided to find a spot to camp and climb Mather in the morning. We took our shoes off for this one and walked across.

The water was ice cold! And went up to my knee. But it was only 4:00 and the sun had time to warm me up. What a beautiful day.

We found an amazing spot to camp soon after. Right in between Pinchot Pass and Mather Pass. We were 2 miles short of Mather Pass. Right at 11,000 feet. Mountains surrounded us. We truly were out here.

I could see Pinchot mountain and the valley we walked across this afternoon. The mountains were familiar. And it was beautiful. Quest and I set up our cowboy gear and cooked dinner, taking in all the beauty.

I can’t believe what I’m watching. We mediated and did some yoga. The few poses I remembers from a Covid inspired yoga month. It felt amazing. I could hear birds chirping, water rushing and wind blowing.

Is the water getting louder quest asked? No, we realized it was the wind. I check the weather on my Garmin and it showed a wind advisory from 6-9pm. With 0% chance of precipitation, so I wasn’t too worried.

I walked to filter water and was amazing all over again by the view. Snow capped river rushing along and framed by beautiful mountains. What a place. This was the most beautiful spot I’ve ever seen.

I went back up and relaxed for a few hours. The clouds kept rolling in and the wind grew stronger. I covered up with my sleeping bag and enjoyed watching the scene unfold. At sunset the clouds were amazing.

They filled the sky. What am amazing spot. The crazy clouds made me a bit nervous because we were high on the pass with no trees around. Not a good spot for a storm! Hopefully the sky clears and it will be full of stars tonight.

Tomorrow morning will be knocking out Mather Pass then hiking 20ish miles right before Muir Pass. I can’t wait to experience it!

Stats

Start: Charlotte Lake – Mile 788.9
End: Woods Creek – Mile 802
Elevation Max: 11,775
Elevation Min: 8,554
Elevation Change: 2,635 up & 3,781 down
Average Heart Rate: 109
Walking Time: 4 hrs 36 minutes
Date: 5/25/2022

The Walk

I woke up at 5 and 6, but went back to sleep each time. At 7 I decided to wake up and pack my tent and gear. A tent is nice to sleep in. It’s protection from the sun and feels cozy.

I wasn’t in a hurry today. No real plan for the day. I still have plenty of food. More than I need to get to VVR. I’m taking advantage of it.

I walked to the bear box to grab the rest of my food. Jeremy was there at the same time! We chatted for a minute and wished each other the best. They were planning to camp at Rae lakes today. I’d pass by there in a few hours.

I started the hike and walked back to the PCT. It was only a mile with a few hundred feet of elevation gain. Not too bad at all. The PCT immediately started to climb Glen Pass. Today I didn’t use FarOut for the first time.

I enjoy seeing the topography on the map and looking at the names of lakes and mountains along the way. I’m going to try and use only the map until VVR.

The climb to Glen Pass was steep and tiring. But the views were beautiful. There was a lake near the top and as I climbed the switchbacks I looked back over mountains and the lake. The pass opened into a snowy landscape. With a huge beautiful valley to walk through.

I spent 30 minutes descending through the snow. Sometimes postholing up to my thigh. The trail was cut pretty well from lots of footsteps before me and I didn’t feel danger along the descent. I saw a pink hat below and hollered out to Quest.

We chatted and stopped for lunch at Rae lakes. Such a beautiful place. Clear blue water framed by snowy mountains and I could see fish swimming around. We relaxed for 2 hours then decided to keep moving.

The trail wound down through the valley and we made our way across multiple water crossings. As we descended in the valley, mountains rose above us and the water grew louder. At the bottom of the valley was a huge suspensions bridge crossing a raging river. So cool! I was bouncing around as I crossed.

The trail started to ascend now and I walked slowly, soaking in all of the views. I didn’t plan to go much further. Only another mile or two. We kept following the raging river. It was music to the ears and beautiful all around.

Eventually we got to a strong water crossing. And had to cross very carefully. This water rushed down the mountain into a river. We made it though and relaxed to dry our feet. Soon after we found a flat spot for camping.

Not large enough to set up a tent, but good enough to cowboy. The bugs were out. But hopefully they would leave by dusk. They were worst down by the bridge, in the lowest part of the valley. One time I saw 5 mosquitos on my arm. So I quickly started walking again.

After setting up camp, I walked 100 yards and found an amazing spot for dinner. It was unreal. A cliff with a raging river to my left flowing down the valley and out of sight. Snow capped, enormous mountains rising up all around. And a jagged mountain ridge right in front, framing the forested valley.

I had cheese, salami, Avacado, veggies on a wrap for dinner. It was perfect. I stayed and watched the sunset then went back to crash.

I’m not sure how much I’ll hike tomorrow. At least will get over Pinchot pass. Maybe try to do Mather or save it until the next morning. We will see. I’m mostly hoping not to have many bug bites. It might be almost time to break out the bug net!

Stats

Start: Bishop – Mile 788.9
End: Charlotte Lake – Mile 788.9
Elevation Max: 11,654
Elevation Min: 9,161
Elevation Change: 2,643 up & 1,513 down
Average Heart Rate: 139
Walking Time: 3 hrs 13 minutes
Date: 5/24/2022

The Walk

Coffee and a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch were waiting for me this morning. The hostel California was great. It had a community kitchen and Speaker, Jack rabbit, Grahm and I all shared a room with a private bathroom. Everything you need for 25 bucks a night.

I had finished my chores yesterday. So I spent the morning relaxing. At 12:30 I walked to the Vons grocery store to catch a bus to independence. The 40 minute bus ride dropped you in the small town. Then I had was another 20 mile hitch to the trailhead.

The bus ride went smoothly and I was excited to be back in the mountains. We got dropped off at the post office and posted up waiting for a car to drive down the road toward the Kearsarge trailhead. Not much was going on. I guess 2:00 on a weekday isn’t a popular time for day hikers to head to trail.

We waited for 30 minutes and only saw locals driving back to their neighborhood. Eventually a guy stopped by and picked us 4 hikers up! He was sneaking in one more hike in before heading to San Diego.

Worked great for us! When I got to trail I started walking. I had way too much water. 3 liters. I dumped out a liter and a half and kept walking. There was plenty of water along the trail.

The first 5 miles of the hike were uphill and my pack was the heaviest it’s ever been. Just over 40 pounds. I brought out some good food for the first few days. Veggies, salami, cheese, and avocado.

I’ll be eating well for a few days at least. The heavy pack wore me out, but I kept moving. And consistently climbed up the hill. At the top I was tired, and welcomed the next two miles of downhill.

I took the high pass back to the PCT. It overlooked the Kearsarge lakes. It was a beautiful section to walk. And I felt relaxed to be back in the mountains.

After another half mile the trail overlooked bullfrog lake. I sat on a rock to relax and soak it all in. The Sierras are unreal.

I kept walking and made it back to the PCT junction. Woo! All I need to do is turn north to get a few real trail miles. But I went straight. Charlotte lake was a mile off trail and had a bear box for all my extra food.

Everyone else was putting in a few extra trail miles. But I decided to camp at the lake. I walked up and knew I made a good decision. It was beautiful and the sun was setting behind the lake. I saw one other couple at the lake, camped near the beginning of the trail.

I walked all the way down to the back of the lake to check for camp spots. The topographic map showed low elevation and a valley behind the lake. I was not disappointed. Actually I was in awe. The lake overflowed down a forested valley and the sun would be setting behind two mountains.

I had an hour, so I went to the lake and ate dinner. My best dinner on trail by far. A wrap with salami, cheese, and fresh veggies. Plus some goldfish as the side. After dinner I put my stuff away in the bear can and met the guy camping at the lake.

He was from the Bay Area and taking 10 days in the Sierras. It was his first trip and he mentioned how hard it was to find them to get out and hike, even when it’s relatively close. We locked our extra food away then I jogged back to camp to check the sunset.

It was bettter than I imagined! Check the pictures out yourself.

I found a good tent spot and could hear the river all night. I’m excited for tomorrow. And happy to be planning the Sierras how I want. I want to take advantage of all the extra food I’m carrying.

Tomorrow I plan to get over two passes, Glen and Pinchot. Then camp at Bench lake 1.7 miles off trail. It will be around 16 miles so not a huge day. I can relax and enjoy the walks and views.

Stats

Start: Bishop – Mile 788.9
End: Bishop – Mile 788.9
Elevation Max: 4,148
Elevation Min: 4,148
Elevation Change: 0 up & 0 down
Average Heart Rate: n/a
Walking Time: 0 hrs 0 minutes
Date: 5/23/2022

The Walk

The Hostel Cali
Bike riding and rock climbing
McFlurry at night.

That’s all. Oh, here’s a few pics.